From The Shop

 

The Newsletter of the Lehigh Valley Woodworkers’ Guild

February  2005

Printed courtesy of HostwindowÔ 

 

Meeting: March 15,  2005   3rd Tues
Place:  

Lehigh County. Senior Center

1633 Elm St., Allentown, Pa. 

Program: 

Fred Matlack on layout and fabrication of segmented straight or tapered cylinders. Plus Coopered panels.

 Guild Membership Dues:

 Please excuse this "Crass commercial announcement," but by the time you read this the Ides of March will be upon us and the remittance of dues which are payable in January is lagging behind previous years.  We are all very busy, and some things are often overlooked.   If you have not re-upped yet please try to do so this month

Guild Workbench: 

Andy Anderson has delivered the workbench to the Center and we will see the results of his handiwork at the meeting.  It features a Bally Block top on a set of Geoffrey Noden's Adjust-a-bench legs.  A vise will be added at a later date.   Thanks, Andy.

March Meeting:

 Fred Matlack will be throwing curves at the audience when he explains the layout and fabrication of segmented straight or tapered cylinders. Coopered panels will also be discussed.

 Fred Matlack…DaMan 

  February Drag-in & Brag-on:

 The only notable thing about this monthly segment that is usually well supported, is that no one brought anything in to brag on!  Are all you guys tired of having your  picture in the newsletter?

 Speaking of pictures:

 We have been discussing taking pictures of individual members for inclusion in a Guild album.  A short bio of each member could also be included.  As time passes and memories fade a resource like this could be very helpful.  Especially to this writer, who at times has had to ask, "Who is this guy?"

 February Highlights:

 The program for the evening was on Shop Safety, which is a topic that sometimes isn't given all the attention that it deserves. Whether you work wood as a hobbyist or as a professional it is important to be aware of correct procedures at all times.  The old  warning; "If it doesn't feel right, don't do it" certainly applies. 


Russ Reinhart, who is a licensed Electrician, started off by describing the difference in hook-ups for 110 volts & 220 volts.  He made it a point to say that the ground and common wires are connected differently and you should not attempt to do any wiring on your own if you are not qualified.

 

  

 Russ covered the correct selection of wire and circuit breakers for given loads, as well as switches and motor starters. Spend a little extra to get dust-proof boxes,

 or seal standard boxes with tape or silicone.  Most standard boxes are dust magnets.

 A good piece of safety equipment is a battery powered light that comes on when power fails. Have you ever thought of what you might do if your shop went pitch black and you had to stumble around in the dark?

 Russ had planned on using a prepared program that he could show on the TV, but the unit was not compatible with the laptop computer he had.

 Bob Tinsman, who is a Certified Fire Safety Instructor, talked of the necessity to practice good fire prevention.

 

Flammable solvents, such as Mineral Spirits and Alcohol, in limited quantities do not create much of a risk if stored properly.  On the other hand, solvent based Contact Cement or Gasoline are disasters waiting to happen and should not be used.

 Any vegetable oils such as Linseed or Tung oil will spontaneously combust if the rags or paper towels used to  apply them are not spread out to dry, are placed in a metal container or submerged in water.

 Although your eyes and nose are good detectors, when you are in the shop, better methods should be  used 


such as smoke, heat and carbon monoxide detectors.

 The best Extinguisher to have is a Dry Chemical, Rated for A, B or C fires such as Wood, Flammable Liquids, and Electrical.  Bob said a good 10LB. unit costs about $89.

 Art Silva closed the program by going over all the safety equipment to use with machinery. This includes blade guards, feather boards of all types, push sticks and push pads, safety glasses, face shields and ear muffs for sound attenuation.

 

A good dust collection system which includes a separate Air Cleaner should be installed.  It is recommended that the Air Cleaner be the first to be installed as it gets the dust you can't see.  A good vacuum that can handle your Sanders, Routers and Biscuit Joiners is a must.  You can save money on the vacuum by buying a $20. switch from Sears that turns it on when you turn on a tool.

 

 

 Book Revue:  by Art Silva

 

 

Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Working with Wood. By Andy Rae, Published by Taunton Press, 2005. $39.95 in hardcover. 280 pages.

 This is the eleventh book in the Guide series, and the second work by Andy Rae, the first being the 307 page "Furniture and Cabinet Construction" published in 2001 which became a best seller. The format for this series has been very clean and easy to follow, and this book continues the unaffected "user friendly" approach.

 The photography, most of which is by the author, continues to be of high quality. Tom Begnal and Matthew Teague shot a few of the pictures and in all cases it is evident that woodworkers were behind the lenses.  All the shots are on target, and there is no ambiguity between the picture and the text.

 Part One-Understanding Wood:

 This is probably the most easily understood explanation of the properties of wood you will ever read.   Andy starts with the structure of softwood and hardwood and how and why wood moves. He shows how to identify "reaction" wood and why you should avoid it.

 


 He continues with the identification of different species and imparts some tricks for identifying wood and understanding grain orientation. 

Part two-Finding and Storing Wood:

 This covers harvesting trees and rough milling the lumber. A great description with pictures of Roy Underhill felling and "axe milling" a log.

 It continues with pictures of our own Mike & Louise Peters showing the correct way to sticker and stack lumber for air drying. Members will remember that Mike mentioned a product called Shade-Dri at his presentation on drying lumber, and this is a chance to see a picture of Mike in his "wrapping" mode.

 This part ends with some solid information on what to look for when buying wood, and how to store it once you get it home.

 Part three-Designing with wood:

 Andy explains how the absorption and shedding of moisture causes wood to move, and how you can design for this movement.  He talks about what joints to use when considering strength and movement and how to test them.  He recommends making scale drawings so that any problems can be sorted out before you start cutting wood. He then shows how to select grain patterns for appearance and strength.

 Part Four- Cutting wood:

 Tips on milling solid wood & sizing plywood with Paul Anthony doing the honors, and a great pictorial of Sam Maloof cutting complex shapes on a bandsaw. Cutting veneer and flattening it is covered, along with making repairs.

 Part five-Bending wood:

 This covers green wood, kerf-bending, bent laminations and steam bending with both Lon Schleining and Chairmaker Don Weber.

 Part six-Smoothing, glueing and finishing:

This is the climax of your journey. You have studied and acquired the wood. You have milled the wood. And now is the time to get down to some real work. Sanding can be an art unto itself. When it is done right you can hardly notice it, but when it is wrong you can spot it a mile away.

 Glue-ups and clamping can be a hassle at times. Andy shows you what works, and what to avoid.

 You are now ready for the finish. Learn how to color the wood, smooth it between coats, apply a finish and then smooth the finish. You're done!

 I am amazed that Andy has found the time to compile 587 pages of excellent copy in two books and work on his own commissions in a little over four years. Paul Anthony was his Editor on this book and it is obvious that he also deserves a lot of credit for a job well done.

 I don't know if there are any more books to be added to this series, but if there are to be any, Andy has certainly raised the bar again.

 Members Mart:

 

Larry Beers has the following items for sale.

 

Jess-Em Master Lift, Phenolic Table Top and, Fence Assembly. All about two and a half years old, used lightly and, in excellent condition. Price: $475.00   Phone: 610-820-3983
 
Croix HVLP Finish Sprayer System. Used very little. Excellent Condition. 4-psi, 120-V, 26 lbs., 60 cfm. Great for a Cabinet shop plus, portable. Price: $490.00   Phone: 610-820-3983

 


WOOD 

SPECIALS

Information compiled by 

LEHIGH VALLEY WOODWORKERS’ GUILD

SHADY LANE TREE FARM

Louise & Mike Peters

5220 Shimerville Road

Emmaus, PA

610 965-5612 Please call

 5/4 Cherry  KD   $ 4.65 bf 

FLEETWOOD LUMBER & FLOORING

Bill Burkert

27 Rapp Rd.

Fleetwood, PA

610 944-8364 Please call

4/4 Lyptus (Hybrid substitute for mahogany or cherry) KD  $ 4.23 bf.

 Member discount 5%

 JOHN DECH

610 261-2938  Please call evenings after 7pm

 4/4 Walnut  Air dried  $ 2.50 / bf

 

BAILEY Wood Products, Inc.

441 Mountain Road

Kempton, PA

610 756-6827

 

Lehigh Valley Woodworkers’ Guild

lvwwg.com

Founded in 1995 by: Dave Dreher
Newsletter:
Art Silva artsil@enter.net 610-298-3285

Helen Patterson

Angelo Triandafilou, Photography

610-253-1402

610-559-9973

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Distribution / Mail list:
Bob Tinsman 610-691-3506
Special Projects Manager
Angelo Triandafilou 610-559-9973

Web Site Administrator :

Lou Supina

215-679-4234

Treasurer:
Harold Anderson 610-965-4828
Advisors / Contributing Writers

Bob Tinsman
Angelo Triandafilou
Harold Andy Anderson
Quent and Helen Patterson

Art Silva
Lou Supina
Tom Wayne
Russ Reinhart

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